The weather, in our part of the country, doesn’t always cooperate with the calendar. Today may not feel like the first day of autumn, but the equal amount of light and dark tells us that, while cool weather may not yet be here, it’s definitely on the way.
This is by far my favorite season for cooking, and already my own palate is beginning to crave heartier fare no matter what the temperature is outside.
One of the great things about autumnal cooking in our area is that we have so many more options in the market. Thanks to that lingering warmth, much of summer’s produce is still available here long after it’s gone elsewhere.
Late tomatoes, summer squash, peppers, eggplants, butterbeans and field peas are available well into October, sharing space in the produce bins with fall kale, winter squash, mushrooms and apples.
When summer’s bounty overstays its season, however, there’s no reason to keep cooking it the same way we did in June. All it needs is a little touch of autumn magic — that is, a little bacon, mushrooms or rosemary, or even all three of them together.
This trio may not go with everything (well ... bacon might), but they’re compatible with so much more than their usual mates. It’s amazing what these smoky, earthy and evergreen elements can do to bring a touch of fall to summer’s produce.
SAUTEED MUSHROOMS WITH BACON AND HERBS
Bacon works wonders on any commercial market mushrooms, from crimini (cremini), to shiitake and portabella. If you have a source for local morels or chanterelles, however, you are in for a religious experience. Serve as a first course over toast or puff pastry cups, as a sauce for short pasta shapes, or over sautéed chicken breasts, any firm, white-fleshed fish, pork or even lamb. Serves 4
3/4 pound mixed wild mushrooms, or mixture of cultivated shiitake, crimini, oyster, and portabella
4 ounces extra-thick cut bacon (about 2 strips), cut in 1/4-inch-wide strips or pancetta, sliced 1/4-inch thick and cut into 1/4-inch strips
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram or oregano
2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian (flat leaf) parsley
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Wipe mushrooms clean with a dry cloth. Cut small ones in half and large ones into quarters or thick slices. Put bacon in a large saute pan over medium high heat. Saute until golden and fat is rendered.
2. Add shallots. Saute, tossing until beginning to color, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms, rapidly toss to evenly coat with fat. Saute until golden at edges, about 3-4 minutes. Mushrooms will absorb fat at first but will release it as they cook.
3. Add Garlic and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Toss until garlic is fragrant and beginning to color, about a minute more. Off heat, add butter and remaining parsley and toss until butter melts. Serve immediately.
ZUCCHINI WITH PANCETTA AND MUSHROOMS
Serves 4
1 pound small, young zucchini
1 ounce (1 package) dried porcini mushrooms
4 ounces pancetta, sliced 1/4-inch thick and cut in 1/4-inch dice
1-2 tablespoons butter
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
2 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 425 degrees F. Scrub zucchini under cold running water, trim, and slice 1/4-inch thick. Bring 1 cup water to a boil and put mushrooms in heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over mushrooms and let stand 15 minutes. Lift mushrooms from soaking liquid, dipping to remove sand.
2. Strain soaking liquid through paper towel or coffee filter into a small skillet or saute pan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until liquid is evaporated and absorbed into mushrooms. Turn off heat, transfer mushrooms to a bowl, and wipe out pan.
3. Put pancetta and 1 tablespoon butter in pan and turn on heat to medium. Saute, tossing often, until pancetta is golden and fat is rendered. If pan does not have enough fat, add more butter. Add onion and saute until translucent and golden. Add mushrooms and heat through. Turn off heat.
4. Lightly butter a 9-inch casserole dish. Arrange zucchini in casserole, overlapping slightly. Scatter pancetta, onion and mushrooms over and season with salt and pepper. Mix crumbs and cheese together and sprinkle evenly over top. Bake until zucchini are tender and top is lightly browned, about half an hour.
WILTED KALE WITH BACON AND ONIONS
Kale is my favorite autumn green and this is my favorite way of preparing it. Serves 4
2 pounds young fresh kale
1/4 pound thick-sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 small hot pepper, seeded and chopped, or to taste, optional
Salt and whole black pepper in a pepper mill
1. Wash kale in several changes of water, or until no gritty soil remains on leaves. Strip away any large, tough stems. Leave small leaves whole or tear in half; roll and cut large leaves into 1-inch strips. Set aside in large bowl. There should still be some moisture clinging to leaves.
2. Put bacon in heavy, deep skillet or Dutch oven (preferably cast iron). Sauté over medium heat until fat is rendered and bacon is beginning to brown but not crisp. Add onion and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add hot pepper if using and sauté until hot through.
3. Add greens by handfuls, and sauté, stirring constantly, until each handful wilts before adding more. When all greens are in the pan, season with salt and pepper, cover, and reduce heat to medium low. Cook until nearly tender, from 3 to 15 minutes depending on type of greens. Add a few spoonfuls of water if liquor dries up too much.
4. Remove lid and cook until liquid is mostly evaporated and greens are tender, about 5 minutes more.
SHRIMP STEW WITH BACON AND TOMATOES
We think of shrimp as summer food, since that’s their peak season, but local shrimp are actually in season until at least November and sometimes through to Christmas. This stew is a heartier way of enjoying them in cooler weather. Serves 4
4 ounces (about 2 slices) extra-thick-cut bacon, cut in 1/4-inch dice
1 1/2 pounds large shrimp
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup minced shallots
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 large anchovy fillet, rinsed, patted dry and minced, or 1 tablespoon anchovy paste
1 small hot pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced, or 1/4 teaspoon crushed pepper flakes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary and 1 bay leaf or 2 teaspoons Herbs de Provence
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1/2 cup dry white vermouth
2 cups (about 1 1/2 pounds) peeled and diced fresh tomatoes, or canned whole tomatoes, seeded and diced (do not use canned diced tomatoes)
Salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1. Peel shrimp, reserving shells. Cover and refrigerate. Put shells in heavy-bottomed enamel or stainless steel saucepan and add 4 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, skimming foam, and reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer until liquid is reduced to 1 cup. Turn off heat and strain, discarding shells.
2. Brown bacon in large, deep-sided skillet or braising pan set over medium heat. Add shallots and saute until translucent, about 3-4 minutes, then add garlic, anchovy, hot pepper, and herbs. Saute until fragrant, about half a minute and add vermouth. Bring to a boil, stirring and scraping pan, and boil until vapors no longer sting.
3. Add broth made from shells, tomatoes, and season to taste with salt. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a steady simmer. Cook until sauce is thick, about 30 minutes. Stew can be made ahead to this point. Reheat over medium low heat before proceeding.
4. Raise heat to medium, add shrimp, and bring to a simmer. Lower heat, cover, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are just curled and pink, about 5-7 minutes. Turn off heat, swirl in butter, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
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